Well, here is is July already. I feel like I'm falling behind on this project,
I'm spending about 8 hours a week on it -- probably not enough. I may have to
bite the bullet and try and find another couple hours to dedicate to the project.
It seems like I'm jumping around a lot, but things are getting done.
- July 3-5, 2004. I've finished pulling and replacing the bathroom floor.
As you can see from the photo below, the floor was in bad shape. The OSB subfloor
was flaking so badly that I could pull chunks of it out with my bare hand -- clearly,
there was a lot of water damage here from something:
- I was able to pry most of it up, then the whole board came out. What a mess!
Here's what it looked like after the second half of the floor came out (I'm standing
on the part that I already finished):
- It's about 9 feet down to the basement floor -- so be careful! This picture
is kind of cool because you can see the new wood joist work sistered on to the
old joists, this is what Ky and I accomplished back in May. This gives the
subfloor a strong frame to attach to. I attached new subfloor and cut an opening
for the toilet flange with a jigsaw. I also jacked up that area of the house again
and re-shimmed under the new joists, raising it about another inch. There was still
quite a slope there, and I wanted to take as much of that out as possible before
laying the real floor.
- Now that the floor is in, I've re-inforced the "wet" wall where the tub and
sink connections will go. This wall was hanging loose, not attached at the bottom
at all (it's not a load-bearing wall, thank heavens). You can kind of see that
from a few of the pictures. I added new structural members and straightened the
wall in preparation for wallboard, etc. I've started mouting cement board on the walls
where the bathtub will go.
- I've also been working in the hallway. I'm patching plaster in that area,
and also wired in a hallway light. There's a small closet in the hall that
needs some work, etc.
- I've finished drywalling the living room. I still need to tape the joints, sand,
and prime. Fun fun!
c I've had to stop work in the bathroom for the time being
and address a more urgent issue: the roof. The roof does not leak, but it does
not look quite right from outside the house. There are sags in the roof, making
it look quite shabby, even though the shingles and such are fairly new and not
leaking. After a thorough inspection of the underside of the roof, the cause has
been found -- cracked rafters. Whoever built the addition side of the house did
not use materials that would pass code today. In fact, the rafters are plain old
2x4's. This is not good. A single 2x4 spanning something like 12 feet or more supporting
a roof is just not enough. So, over time, these have sagged, and four are cracked.
I spent part of Saturday trying to figure out how to solve this problem, while
working on a few other things (taped and filled the drywall seams in the living room,
ran another electric circuit for the front bedroom and a GFCI in the bathroom).
- Sunday, I finally figured out a way to fix it. Because I already have the
ceiling out in the bathroom, now is the ideal time to fix this. I can easily get
into the attic and get wood up there. I decided to sister another 2x4 along side
each cracked joist. The problem was in getting the sistered 2x4 level with the older
wood. Because of the cracks and sagging roof, the new 2x4 would have to be pushed
into place, and well, I'm not a big guy and am not strong enough to do this (plus,
there's about 10" of headroom in some of these spots and you can get no leverage
at all). So, I decided the easiest way to get the sistered rafters level was
to use the jack, setting it on the ground floor with an 8' lally column. I cut one end of the 2x4 at an angle that would be parallel
with the floor. The 2x4 was hoisted into the attic, and one
end was nailed into place. The other end hung loosely through the ceiling, waiting
to be pushed into place. Here's a picture of the jack setup in the back bedroom (dig
those funky walls) as I'm pushing a rafter into place:
- And, looking at it from below as the jack pushes the new rafter into place:
- Then, you nail the other end in place:
- This worked REALLY well. The jack didn't have to work hard to lift the roof,
and when I looked at it from outside, a noticeable difference had been made. The
sag was nearly gone after two rafters done, and when I do the third (next weekend),
I imagine it will be totally gone. I'm thinking about doing this to most of the
rafters, as there seems to be quite a bit of sag/deflection here. It takes about
30 minutes to do these, and the cost is minimal (under $5 for the wood). Unfortunately, to
get at the rafters in the front bedroom would require me to cut holes in the ceiling.
The ceiling is already gone in the bathroom and mostly gone in the back bedroom,
so this was not a problem there.
- July 17-18, 2004. It seemed like I worked really hard this weekend, but I
don't feel as though I made a ton of progress. I'm trying to fix all these
rafters in the roof. Some have cracked, others haven't. I'm going to support
them all, just in case. Saturday I hauled another load of wood down and cut 10
to fit. They're all up in the roof at this point, but not all have been jacked
up and connected. Here's a picture of the kind of problems I've found (see arrows
pointing to damage):
- I also hauled another load of dryall and plywood down. I mentioned in another
post that I can't fit these items in the car, so I strap them on the roof. Well,
here's the Hyundai with 7 sheets of drywall and 2 sheets of plywood on the top
(that roof rack comes in REALLY handy):
- I'm also drywalling in the hallway now, as well as putting in new doors
in the bathroom (entrance and closet) and the closet in the hallway. In the
closet, under a stack of junk, I found a huge photo of what might be the former
owners of the crack house. This looks pretty old...1980's? Clearly taken at a time
when the house was in better shape! I wonder where they are now and if they
ever drive past their old house!?